How Tight Should Rock Climbing Shoes Be

Climbing shoes

The feet are the most important points of contact between of the climber with the rock. A secure position and good friction is crucial for success in a route or a Boulder. Because climbing is not equal to climbing, there’s climbing shoes (often called “Velcro er finches” in the Switzerland) for different disciplines, different rock types and various wall angles.
The market is therefore very strongly differentiated and it is difficult for climbing beginners, to make a selection. Essentially, the shoes in the shape of the bar or the construction, the type of closure, and the soles rubber differ. Also the choice of size can be some leeway in the shoe selection. Many climbers purchase several pairs of shoes in her climbing career, to use them in specific disciplines such as bouldering and multi pitch sport climbing.
Often, a distinction is made between shoes for “out there on the rock” and “indoors in the Hall”. Ultimately offer La Sportiva, red chili, boreal, Evolv, five ten in addition to climbing a series approach shoes for the approach routes to the rock.

The design determines the purpose

soft and sensitive shoes for plates climbing, strong bias for’s climbing on the roof – the individual models could hardly be more different. A criterion is how much the heel of the shoe pushes the foot forward “in the shoe”. This creates tension, and a very direct feel. The smaller the kicks and the arching the wall, the more tension takes the shoe.
Another criterion for selection is the hardness of the midsole. It determines how much of the foot when the stand is supported or how sensitive the sole feels. Here goes: stiffer soles suitable for slip resistance at small bars kicks, crack climbing, or in the Hall. Friction kicks require, however, soft and sensitive soles, and a willingness to invest some more foot power.

Verschlussache: overview of the different systems

there’s shoes as lace-up shoes, Velcroschuhe (Velcro) or as slippers. The former provide the best traction and many individual settings, other a good fit and the ability to get rid of the shoes quickly for a route. Slipper accordingly keep the foot only via elastic, and eng she should be chosen.
Especially boulderers likes to put on slippers, if they want to remove the shoes after each hard test or during breaks. The more comfortable a shoe falls off, the sooner it can be worn during Alpine rope length routes as a cordless model, for example. The shoes breaks with carabiners of the harness can be attached to the tightening strap.

The question of liability: soles of soft to hard

Softer soles generate more surface friction on rock and plastic. But is their edge rigidity on tiny “blades”-Tritten on a much lower level than in harder soles. Usually softer soles wear out much faster, especially when unsafe climbing. Five tens Steahlth rubber offers a good compromise between grip and durability.
Specifically for bouldering, the market offers shoes with a reduced sole thickness for maximum Sinsibilität and the way to the toes to the access to use. For optimal hook performance, there are models with rubber surface coating, which extends over the entire shoe. The heels of these models are that they are perfectly suitable for the hooken.

Manufacturer and size selection

many climbers experience that a certain manufacturer’s shoes fit them particularly well. Each manufacturer its own standard bar sets based for the development, which is why many people wear different models of a brand, “because they just fit”. Performance – or tech-fit models be selected like something small to realize maximum performance – often are the toes in these models in the shoe “set up”.
Comfort-fit models are aimed at people who want to wear the shoe longer at a time. What is the size of the shoes in relation to the street shoe size, depends on the manufacturer and can be determined in the fitting advice. When selecting the size is taken into account that the Outer fabric stretches for a record time of about ten lengths of rope between 0.5 sizes (synthetic leather) and 1.5 sizes (real leather).