Express sets for rock climbing and mountaineering
Expressen are inseparable from the climbing and mountaineering and belong to the standard equipment of every alpinist. The express sets are also called Expressen or short mutexes. They consist of two snap hooks, which are connected by an express Sling. You extend the carabiners in the interim backups and reduce so the friction of the rope. Also have Expressets an important joint function and prevent dangerous twisting of the carabiner, which can lead to lateral loads. Even though the wide range of express sets at first glance may appear confusing – with a bit of experience guarantees every enthusiastic climber finds the right product.
Express sets for mountain climbing, alpine more pitches and sports climbing
Sport climbing have Expressen with a sling and length of 12 cm established itself as a standard. This length complies with all important functions, without disturbing the strap too much. For use in Alpine multi pitch tours or for very long Sportkletter routes, where the reduction of the friction of the rope is significantly important, longer loops are used. The longest loop express sets are about 30 cm.
The different types of carabiners for express sets
Basically all common snap snap can be used in a set of Express. The classic version is both hook-side (facing the drill hook page), as well as rope-side (the side facing the rope) equipped with an all-aluminum snap snap. For several years, used almost exclusively keylock locking carabiner. They have the advantage that the nose of the Karbiners not in the hook gets caught. This significantly simplifies the handling of the express sets. < br / > as an alternative there Expressen, which are equipped with wire gate carabiners. This carabiner form has the advantage that the closure even in icy temperatures does not freeze. It also increases safety attach the carabiner on the rock, can not so easily cause open loads of the carabiner. Some express sets with keylock-like systems, which combine the advantages of both carabiner shapes have wire gate. Other express sets the carabiners are mixed used – depending on the personal preference that can be easily find correct synonym.
Express Sling Dyneema or nylon?
Is another question, on which one inevitably encounters when purchasing express sets, after the loop material. Dyneema has the advantage of being considerably lighter, so comes with all express sets for use where a possible light weight is critical. Nylon is severe, but less sensitive to UV radiation. Also nylon slings are slightly wider and be valued hence just beginners and the Ausbouldern route – they can be much better to hold as the thin Dyneema Expressen. Rubber fixations on the express trains are a practical detail that you still should take care in this context. To prevent, that twist the rope and karabiner in the express Sling. This provides more security and facilitates the Einclippen of the Kletterseils in the mutexes.
Special Express sets
In addition to the already mentioned express sets with overlong express slings, there are still some more special. So available Expressen on the market that are equipped on both sides with screw. This form is particularly suitable for very important interim backups because the risk of an open load is greatly reduced. There’s also Expressen with reinforced loop which can be inserted himself as podge clip tick.