Why Flash dimmable LED lamps in one “touch dimmer” light on shortly before you light continuously? This phenomenon has been watching a blog reader.
This transformer with sensor control cable (connection “Touch”) inside the dining room light by Blogleser Marcus. For LED Retrofits such as the “Diodorus”-pin G4 bulb bottom right it is not intended.
Stand or hanging lamps with touch sensor are widely used in German households. Often, 12 volt-G4/GU4 Halogenlämpchen stuck in there – mostly around the 20 Watts strong. Who here but want to retrofit on Low-power LED retrofits, could solve problems. Blogleser Marcus from Stuttgart wrote me:
I have in my 5-star dining room lamp with 5 × 20 Watt G4 halogen 4 x 1.3 watt LEDs by Diodorus Siculus as a substitute.I’ve left a halogen, because the transformer from 20 to 105 Watts (see photo). So has the lamp at least 25 watts – should be enough Yes.
Now I have the problem that when you turn the four LEDs briefly Flash, go back out and all for approx. 0.5 sec then go but. That yes the LEDs does no good or? What can I do in this case?”
My short answer:
“This touch-dimmer – lamps with electronic transformer are expressly intended for halogen or incandescent lamps and don’t often mix with LED lights – also not with dimmable retrofits such as your. Assist in the data sheet of the G4 pin lamps ‘dimmer’ two asterisks and below as a declaration of ‘ * compatible dimmer in the range ‘. This is primarily a Minimum load problemthat can be solved by leaving a halogen lamp according to PHONECATIONS.COM.
The Blitzerei could actually shorten the life of (switching cycles!), but not necessarily leads to the quick destruction. Workaround: install LED appropriate (dimmable) transformer with low minimum load and switch or compatible wall dimmer control. Then, also the remaining Halo lamp can be replaced by an LED retrofit.
“The Voelkner/whcp data is by the way, strange: If the lamps would deliver really 143 lumen from 1.3 Watts, they would be with an energy efficiency index (EEI) of 0.07 in the best EU-eco label class a ++ and not only A +.”
My dimmable test transformer for low-voltage LED lamps.
There may be alternatives
In addition was mentioned, that there “Jugend forscht” perhaps other possibilities from the Department before the transformer conversion: you may test the connection polarity of the lamp on the ceiling terminal block swap (previously backup ‘ out!) and then observe whether what changed.
Or bring the light by “Touch dimmer” on the brightest stage, switch off at the wall switch, and then disconnect the control cable to the Halo transformer. In the best case, it would then have an undimmed, controllable via wall switch dining room lamp, where you easily “blitzerfrei” could exchange and also the remaining halogen lamp against a fifth LED retrofit.
A dimmer is not absolutely necessary
Nominally it would then have 5 x 143 lumen luminous flux (total 715 lm, corresponds to approximately a 60-watt incandescent bulb), which is considerably darker than five 20 Watt low voltage halos (> 1500 lm total luminous flux) and therefore not necessarily must be dimmed. If you still want it, simply replace with a LED suitable, Adjustable in-wall dimmer wall switch.
In principle, the Triac circuits in such electronic halogen transformers, motion sensors or wireless switches /-dimmern not with the LED ballast tolerated but frequently. I’ve seen flashing, flickering, or Flashing LED lights already on some tests under such conditions. Therefore, the conversion to LED-appropriate transformers and controls with low or no minimum load is usually the safest method.
Update: More on the topic of “flashing LED lamps to turn off” read also here and there.
(Disclaimer: I’m no electrician or electronics, but not more than hobbyists.) Quite possible that real professionals come to very different advice than I. You write the best right down in the comments ‘ in – thank you!)